Threads of the throne

SU professor twists modern style with 18th century couture in Everson Museum exhibit

By: Christine Robertson

Posted: 9/24/08

Four mannequins in pink dresses greet Everson Museum-goers. The mannequins are a throwback to the 18th century when corsets were the norm, and Marie Antoinette was the poster-child for fashion.

The model in the forefront wears a taffeta dress with an elaborate pearl necklace, typical of the time period. But something seems uncharacteristic of the French style - the dress has a modern touch with Dolce and Gabanna belt and shoes, which spell out "sexy" in gold.

Syracuse University professor of fashion history Jeffrey Mayer has embodied the life of the French queen in his exhibit, "Styling the 18th-Century Superstar," now on display at the Everson Museum of Art in downtown Syracuse.

The exhibit is a spectacular presentation of fashions inspired by the Austrian-born Antoinette. Mannequins are dressed in styles by various designers from Chanel to Mossimo for Target.

Mayer pieced together gowns, jewelry, shoes and headpieces to create true works of art in the dream-like arrangements fit for a queen. He said he was inspired to create the exhibit after his students showed a high interest in Sofia Coppola's 2006 film "Marie Antoinette."

"It made me think about how I could stage a fashion presentation about Marie Antoinette without any 18th century clothing," he said.

After two years of gathering materials and assembling the exhibit, it was displayed for the first time in Lyman Hall on September 20. It is on display on the second floor of the Everson museum.

The exhibit is organized into different themes, including fantasy in dress and the luxury of garments. It also explores the use of menswear by a 14-year-old princess for riding, along with the exoticism of the objects Antoinette's mother sent her from the Far East.

There are seven sections to the exhibit: at play, robe en chemise, toil de joue, exotics, menswear, at court, Marie Antoinette and Madame Alexander. Each segment features a group of mannequins posed in different positions, creating different scenes.

In addition to the garments, there are various backdrop objects such as flowers, trees, fruits and vegetables looking like a garden. Antoinette rests within a small village created for her where she spent time pretending to be stewardesses and milkmaids.

A ship with lace sails adorns the mannequin's head in a sea of wild, white-blonde hair. In front of her, a sheep also wears a similar headpiece inspired by Antoinette's small hamlet.

One of the flashier parts of the exhibit is the exoticism section, which features rich, jewel-toned dresses. A wooden screen adorned with painted toucans acts as a backdrop.

Two polyester dresses by Mary McFadden are featured: one emerald green and the other fuchsia and purple with elaborate beading. Two of the mannequins wear silk turbans with black, oversized feathers. The interesting objects sent from the Far East by Antoinette's mother inspired these styles.

The "at court" section of the exhibit presents a number of gowns by Oscar de la Renta, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and Valentino. One Caroline Herrera dress of black, gold and silver spreads out on a sitting mannequin, her head adorned by a miniature, gold dining chair.

The designers paid extensive detail to the jewelry and shoes. Dangling necklaces of pearl and crystal emblems hang around the mannequins' necks, perfecting the over-the-top look. Almost all shoes have some kind of beading or design incorporated into the finished product.

A total of 47 models have made a different world out of the Everson. Mayer has definitely created something for anyone who appreciates fashion of both the past and present. But the exhibit isn't limited to those who care about fashion. It is a work of art and a sight to see for almost anyone.

"I think that it is fascinating that there are so many vestiges left of a young French queen in today's style of dress," Mayer said. "She may be dead, but she is not forgotten."

carobe04@syr.edu